How to Hang an Internal Door: Measuring, Fitting Hinges & Latch Alignment
Standard UK internal doors are 1981mm × 762mm × 35mm (2'6") or 1981mm × 838mm × 35mm (2'9"). Allow 2mm clearance all round the frame (3mm at the bottom over carpet). Fit butt hinges 150mm from top and 225mm from bottom of door; use three hinges on doors over 2040mm or heavier doors. No Building Regulations notification required for standard internal door hanging.
Summary
Hanging an internal door looks simple but is one of those jobs where small errors compound — a door that's slightly out of square at fitting will bind in summer and rattle in winter; a latch not aligned with the keep will click every time the door closes. Getting it right first time is about systematic measurement, careful marking, and understanding how wood moves.
Most door hanging in UK housing involves replacing like-for-like in existing frames. The more challenging work arises when fitting a new door in a new or altered frame, particularly in older properties where nothing is plumb or square. The methodology here covers both scenarios.
Internal door hanging doesn't require Building Regulations notification — it's not a notifiable structural or electrical change. However, if the door is a fire door (FD30, FD60), the installation requirements are substantially different and more stringent. Fire door installation is covered in a separate article; this article covers standard internal doors only.
Key Facts
- Standard UK door sizes — 1981mm height is almost universal; common widths: 610mm (2'0"), 686mm (2'3"), 762mm (2'6"), 838mm (2'9"), 914mm (3'0")
- Door thickness — 35mm standard internal; 44mm for fire doors and some external
- Clearance around door — 2mm on latch side, hinge side, and top; 3mm minimum at bottom over carpet; 10–12mm over hard floors if no threshold
- Hinge positions — 150mm from top; 225mm from bottom; third hinge at mid-point for heavy or tall doors
- Standard butt hinge size — 75mm × 50mm (3") for interior doors up to 35mm thick
- Hinge type — pressed steel butt hinges for most doors; loose pin hinges where door removal may be needed frequently; ball-bearing hinges for heavy hardwood doors
- Latch height — 990mm to 1000mm from finished floor is standard; 990mm puts the handle centre at a comfortable grip height
- NHBC standard — three hinges on any door over 2040mm tall; two hinges adequate for standard 1981mm doors
- Pre-hung sets — door, lining, and stops supplied as a kit; saves time on new-build; requires accurate frame rough opening
- Door material movement — softwood doors can expand 3–5mm in width in humid conditions; hardwood less; prefinished doors are more stable
- Biscuit joint or loose tongue — most UK panel doors have a loose central tongue/mortice-and-tenon construction; solid doors can be planed more freely
Quick Reference Table
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Try squote free →| Door Width | Common Name | Typical Room Use |
|---|---|---|
| 610mm (2'0") | Narrow | Cloakroom, airing cupboard |
| 686mm (2'3") | Medium | Cupboards, secondary rooms |
| 762mm (2'6") | Standard | Most bedrooms and living rooms |
| 838mm (2'9") | Wide | Master bedroom, main rooms |
| 914mm (3'0") | Accessibility | Wheelchair accessible (minimum) |
| 1981mm height | Universal | Standard UK door height |
| Clearance Location | Standard Clearance | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Top of door | 2mm | Over carpet; 2mm over hard floor |
| Latch side | 2mm | Consistent with hinge side |
| Hinge side | 2mm | Leaves room for hinge barrel projection |
| Bottom (over carpet) | 3mm | Minimum; more over thick carpets |
| Bottom (over hard floor) | 10–12mm | Draught sealing with threshold strip |
| Bottom (fire door) | 3mm maximum | Intumescent seal required |
| Hinge Size | Door Thickness | Door Weight | Hinge Count |
|---|---|---|---|
| 75mm × 50mm | 35mm | Up to 20kg | 2 (standard doors) |
| 100mm × 75mm | 44mm | 20–40kg | 3 |
| 100mm × 75mm | 44mm | 40kg+ | 3 minimum; heavy-duty pattern |
Detailed Guidance
Measuring and Preparing the Door
Step 1: Measure the frame opening Measure the clear opening of the door lining (frame) in three places for width (top, middle, bottom) and three places for height (left, centre, right). Note the smallest dimension in each axis — this is your maximum door size.
Step 2: Calculate the door size Subtract 4mm from the clear width (2mm clearance each side) to get the door width. Subtract 4mm from the clear height (2mm top clearance plus 2mm bottom initially — adjust for flooring) to get the door height.
Step 3: Select or cut the door Check the door label — most solid core or panel doors have a machining zone label showing the minimum material that can be removed. Never remove more than the indicated amount from any edge. For panel doors: don't cut into a full panel if possible — cut from the hinge edge stile and latch edge stile equally.
If reducing door width: equal amounts should ideally be removed from both sides. This maintains the door's structural balance. If the reduction is small (under 10mm per side), cutting from one side only is acceptable.
Marking Out Hinges
Accurate hinge marking is the foundation of a door that swings correctly without binding.
Stand the door on edge in the frame opening. Use a pencil to mark the door top and bottom onto the frame, and mark the hinge side of the frame onto the door edge.
Set a marking gauge to the hinge leaf thickness (typically 2mm for pressed steel hinges). Mark a line along the door edge and frame face — this is the depth of the hinge recess (housing).
Mark the hinge positions on the door edge:
- Top hinge: 150mm from top of door (measured to the centre of the hinge)
- Bottom hinge: 225mm from bottom
- Third hinge (if used): equidistant between the two
Transfer the hinge positions to the door frame jamb using the same dimensions, measured from the top of the frame opening.
Hinge the door to the frame using a chisel technique: score the housing outline with a sharp chisel or marking knife; pare to depth; check the hinge lies flush with the surface.
Chiselling Hinge Housings (Recesses)
Method:
- Score the hinge outline with a sharp chisel, holding it vertically
- Make a series of shallow chisel cuts across the housing (at 3mm intervals perpendicular to the grain) to the required depth — these break up the wood fibres
- Pare away the waste wood with the chisel bevel-side down; work from the centre outward to avoid splitting
- Check depth frequently — the hinge should lie flush with the surface, not below or proud
- A hinge that sits 0.5mm proud will cause the door to bind on the latch side; a hinge recessed too deep will hold the door slightly away from the frame, causing a gap
For production hanging (fitting multiple doors on new build), a router with a hinge-routing jig dramatically speeds up the process and ensures consistent depth.
Fitting the Latch and Strike Plate
Mark the latch height: 990mm from finished floor to the centre of the latch body (spindle hole). This puts the handle at a comfortable height for adults.
Mark the centre line of the latch face on the door edge. The latch face is normally 8mm wide on standard tubular latches — mark this width centrally on the edge.
Drill for the latch body: use a 25mm flat bit (or Forstner bit) for the latch body hole, typically 57–63mm deep depending on the latch backset (distance from door face to spindle centre — usually 57mm or 63mm).
Drill for the spindle: 8mm hole through the face of the door at the marked spindle height, lined up with the latch body.
Chisel the latch face housing: mark and chisel the rectangular housing in the door edge for the latch faceplate, flush with the door edge surface.
Hang the door on its hinges. Close the door until the latch bolt touches the frame. Mark the frame where the bolt centre hits. Transfer this to the strike plate position.
Chisel the frame for the strike plate: mark and chisel the housing for the strike plate flush with the frame face; drill the keep hole behind it for the bolt to enter.
Test the door — the latch should engage cleanly; the door should close with no binding; the handle should return freely.
Adjusting a Sticking Door
Doors bind for several common reasons, each with a different solution:
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Binds at top latch corner | Hinge side dropping (loose hinge) | Tighten screws; if stripped, use longer screws or wooden plugs |
| Binds along top | Door swollen with moisture | Check moisture source; plane top edge; paint all edges |
| Binds on latch side | Hinge recesses too deep | Pack hinge with card; recess correctly |
| Binds at bottom | Floor level changed | Plane bottom edge to new clearance |
| Rattles in wind | Too much clearance or stop not tight | Adjust stop; fit draught seal |
| Latch doesn't catch | Strike plate misaligned | Elongate the keep hole with a file; reposition strike plate |
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I paint the door before or after hanging?
Ideally, prime all faces and edges before hanging (particularly the top and bottom edges which are often left unpainted). Unprimed door edges absorb moisture and swell, causing sticking. Finish painting after hanging so you can cut the painted surface tight to the frame for a professional appearance. Never hang a fully unprimed door in a bathroom or kitchen — moisture uptake is too high.
Can I use two hinges on a heavy door?
For standard 35mm panel doors up to 1981mm tall and approximately 20kg, two 75mm butt hinges are sufficient. For heavier solid oak doors, tall doors over 2040mm, or frequently used doors, fit three hinges. The top and bottom hinges carry the structural load; the middle hinge prevents the door warping over time.
How do I hang a door in an out-of-plumb frame?
Older properties rarely have plumb, square door linings. The approach: measure the actual clearances needed at each corner, taper the door to suit the frame (if the difference is under 5mm, tapering the door is easier than relevelling the frame). For differences greater than 10mm, the frame lining should be adjusted or replaced. Always check for plumb and level before installing a new lining.
What size screws should I use for hinges?
Standard butt hinges have countersunk holes for No. 8 × 1¼" (32mm) screws — this is what most hinges come with. For better holding power in older softwood frames where the original screw holes are enlarged, use No. 10 × 1½" (38mm) screws. Never use shorter screws — a 25mm screw barely penetrates the frame jamb and will pull out under repeated door use.
Regulations & Standards
BS EN 1935 — single-axis hinges for windows and doors; performance classification
BS EN 12209 — mechanically operated locks and latches; performance classification for latch sets
BS 8214 — timber fire door assembly installation code of practice (fire doors only)
Building Regulations Approved Document M — accessibility in buildings; clear opening widths for wheelchair access (minimum 750mm clear for new dwellings)
Building Regulations Approved Document B — fire doors specifically; see fire doors
NHBC Standards Chapter 6.7 — door and window standards for new dwellings
Jeld-Wen Door Fitting Guide — practical manufacturer fitting instructions
Ironmongery Direct: How to Hang a Door — step-by-step reference guide
fire doors — fire door installation requirements and inspection
bifold doors — bifold door installation in structural openings
timber spans — structural considerations for door openings
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