Summary

GRP flat roofing has grown significantly in market share for domestic flat roof replacement since the mid-1990s. Its appeal lies in creating a truly seamless, monolithic waterproofing layer that eliminates all joints — traditionally the most vulnerable part of any flat roof. When correctly installed on a suitable substrate, GRP is one of the most durable flat roof options available, with manufacturers offering warranties of 20–25 years and demonstrated lifespans of 40+ years in service.

However, GRP is a catalysed composite material — its properties depend critically on the chemistry of the cure. Under-catalysed resin remains soft and tacky; over-catalysed resin sets too quickly, trapping solvents and causing surface crazing and delamination. Incorrect installation temperature causes slow cure, tackiness, or premature gelation. For this reason, GRP is more skill-dependent than membrane roofing systems, and common defects (delamination, crazing, bubbling) are almost entirely attributable to incorrect application.

Unlike EPDM, TPO, or bituminous felt (which are manufactured products with defined properties), GRP properties depend on what the installer does on site. This places greater responsibility on the roofer and makes quality control during installation critical.

Key Facts

  • System components — primer, chopped strand mat (CSM) glass reinforcement, polyester resin (laminating resin), and gelcoat topcoat
  • CSM weight — typically 450g/m² (0.45 kg/m²) for roofing; some systems use 600g/m² for increased thickness; lighter mats (300g/m²) are used for detail work
  • Catalyst (MEKP) — methyl ethyl ketone peroxide; added to resin at 1–2% by weight; controls cure speed; more catalyst = faster cure in cold; less catalyst = slower cure in warm weather
  • Mixing ratio — weigh catalyst and resin accurately; do not use volume measures; at 1% by weight: 10ml MEKP per 1 litre of resin (resin density ≈ 1.0–1.1 kg/l)
  • Pot life — time available to work the resin before it gels; typically 15–40 minutes at 15–20°C with 1–2% catalyst; adjust catalyst for ambient temperature
  • Minimum application temperature — 5°C ambient; substrate must also be above 5°C; curing stops below this temperature, leaving tacky, uncured resin
  • Maximum application temperature — 25°C ambient is the typical upper limit for reliable working time; above 25°C, pot life shortens dramatically and resin may exotherm (overheat and crack) in the mixing bucket
  • Plywood substrate — minimum 18mm T&G plywood (OSB/3 at 22mm also acceptable); boards must be laid correctly with expansion gaps; no wet, green, or CCA-treated timber
  • Fibreglass thickness — a single layer of 450g/m² CSM plus resin = approximately 2mm total; the gelcoat adds approximately 0.5mm; total system = 2–3mm
  • Trim (fascia trim) — GRP-compatible trim (J-section or dry-verge style) applied at all edges before laminating; the CSM and gelcoat are taken over and behind the trim
  • Cure time — typically 2–4 hours for initial cure (walkable but not final); full cure: 24–48 hours before service; do not apply gelcoat to laminate that is fully cured — key coat the laminate first
  • Key coat — a barrier coat of gelcoat applied to the laminate before full cure (when laminate is hard but still slightly flexible to touch); must be applied within the manufacturer's specified window (typically 2–24 hours of laminate cure); if laminate is fully cured before gelcoat, adhesion fails and delamination results

Quick Reference Table

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Application Step Key Parameter Common Error
Primer Apply to clean, dry deck; allow to dry fully Applying to damp or dusty substrate
CSM cut and lay Lay flat, no wrinkles; overlap minimum 50mm at seams Dry patches (areas not wetted with resin)
Resin mixing 1–2% MEKP by weight; mix thoroughly Volume measuring; incomplete mixing
Resin application Wet out the CSM fully; remove air with a ribbed roller Air bubbles trapped in laminate
Key coat timing Apply gelcoat when laminate is hard but before full cure Applying too late = adhesion failure
Gelcoat application 0.4–0.5mm wet film thickness; two-coat if needed Thin patches; applying in rain or dew
Edge trim Fixed before laminating; CSM over and behind trim Laminate not continuous over trim edge
Upstand height Minimum 150mm from roof surface Insufficient upstand allowing water ingress

Detailed Guidance

Substrate Preparation

The substrate for GRP roofing must be:

  • Plywood: 18mm T&G exterior-grade (BS EN 636 Type 3); fixed at 150mm centres at edges, 300mm in the field; boards staggered
  • OSB/3: 22mm T&G, moisture-resistant graded; same fixing pattern
  • Dry: moisture content below 18% (check with a moisture meter); never apply GRP to wet or damp timber
  • Clean: free from dust, grease, and any contamination; sweep and vacuum before priming
  • Gap at boards: 3–5mm expansion gap between plywood boards is essential; without gaps, expansion of the boards causes the GRP to crack along board edges (a very common failure mode)

Some GRP systems (particularly those using styrene-free resins) can be applied directly to concrete or screed, but the primer system differs — consult the manufacturer's technical data sheet for non-timber substrates.

CCA-treated timber: Chromated copper arsenate (green-treated) timber contains chemicals that inhibit GRP resin cure; do not apply GRP directly to CCA-treated decking — a separating layer (additional plywood or primer isolation coat) is required.

The Installation Sequence

Step 1 — Trim installation: Fix GRP edge trim (J-section or similar) to all edges, eaves, and upstands using stainless steel screws or roofing nails at 300mm centres. The trim provides a mechanical edge for the GRP system and a drip edge for rainwater. The CSM and topcoat are later taken over and behind the trim to form a water-tight junction.

Step 2 — Primer application: Apply the manufacturer's primer to the entire plywood deck surface using a brush or roller. Allow primer to become tack-free before proceeding (typically 30–60 minutes). The primer seals the timber surface, prevents resin absorption into the grain, and provides a key for the laminate.

Step 3 — CSM cutting and dry fitting: Cut the glass mat to size before mixing resin. Roll sections of CSM across the deck to confirm coverage and plan for seams (minimum 50mm overlap). Pre-cut detail pieces for upstands, corners, and trims. Having all mat sections prepared before starting the lamination is critical — mixed resin has a finite pot life.

Step 4 — Resin mixing: Weigh resin into a clean bucket. Add catalyst (MEKP) at the manufacturer's specified percentage (typically 1–2% by weight); the percentage adjusts for ambient temperature:

  • Below 10°C: 2–2.5% catalyst (faster cure)
  • 10–20°C: 1.5% catalyst
  • 20–25°C: 1% catalyst
  • Above 25°C: reduce to 0.5–0.75%; consider working early morning when cooler

Mix thoroughly for minimum 2 minutes; scrape sides and bottom of the bucket. Never use the same brush or roller for uncatalysed and catalysed resin — contamination prevents the catalyst from mixing fully.

Step 5 — Lamination: Apply a layer of catalysed resin to a section of the deck (approximately 2m² at a time for a practised installer). Lay the pre-cut CSM onto the wet resin. Apply further resin over the top of the mat, working it through from the centre outward to avoid trapping air. Use a ribbed (lamb's tongue) roller to press the mat into the resin and eliminate air bubbles — air bubbles appear as white patches. Work quickly but methodically; if resin starts to gel before air is fully removed, move to the next section.

Step 6 — Upstands and details: Upstand sections (minimum 150mm high) should be laminated with the flat roof section still wet, or as a second application immediately after the flat section before it cures. Wrapping the CSM continuously from flat to upstand and behind the edge trim creates the seamless joint that is the system's primary advantage.

Step 7 — Key coat timing: This is the most time-critical step. The gelcoat must be applied to the laminate within the manufacturer's specified window — when the laminate is hard enough to walk on but before it reaches full polymerisation (typically 2–24 hours, highly temperature-dependent). At this stage, the laminate surface has enough residual chemical activity to chemically bond with the gelcoat. After full cure, the chemical bond is no longer possible and the gelcoat will not adhere reliably.

Test the laminate readiness by pressing a fingernail into an edge trim area — it should not dent (too soft) but should feel slightly "alive" rather than fully inert. If in doubt, the manufacturer's technical helpline can advise based on site conditions.

Step 8 — Gelcoat application: Apply gelcoat using a brush or roller to achieve a wet film thickness of 0.4–0.5mm (check with a wet film gauge). Two thin coats are better than one thick coat. Apply in overlapping stripes, working in one direction; a second coat in the perpendicular direction ensures even coverage. Do not apply in direct sunlight on a warm day (can cause surface crazing from rapid solvent evaporation). Do not apply if rain or dew is likely within 2 hours.

Common Defects and Their Causes

Delamination (gelcoat peeling from laminate):

  • Cause: key coat applied after full cure; contamination of the laminate surface (dust, moisture, solvent); catalyst ratio mismatch between laminate and gelcoat resins
  • Fix: grinding back to sound substrate and re-laminating the affected area; cannot be effectively patch-repaired without re-lamination

Surface crazing (network of fine cracks in gelcoat):

  • Cause: gelcoat applied too thick (exothermic cracking); applied in direct sunlight at high temperature; excessive catalyst in the gelcoat; incorrect gelcoat type (colour pigmented gelcoats differ in flexibility from UV stabilised clear/tinted topcoats)
  • Fix: scuff sand and re-coat with compatible topcoat if adhesion is sound; full strip if crazing extends into the laminate

White patches / dry patches (areas of visible glass fibre):

  • Cause: insufficient resin to wet out the CSM; air trapped under dry mat; mat laid on partially gelled resin
  • Fix: apply additional resin to wet out the dry patch; cut out if laminate integrity is compromised

Cracking along plywood board edges:

  • Cause: boards installed without expansion gaps; thermal and moisture movement of the deck ruptures the bonded GRP laminate along the board edges
  • Fix: cut out the crack, add a CSM strip and re-laminate; cannot be permanently repaired without removing and re-fixing the decking with gaps

Tacky, uncured surface:

  • Cause: insufficient catalyst; too cold during cure; rain or dew contamination during cure; insufficient air (resin cure requires oxygen inhibition on the surface — contact with moisture prevents proper surface cure)
  • Fix: apply a surface activator (paraffin wax solution) to allow surface cure; or carefully add additional catalyst to the surface layer and allow to cure; consult manufacturer

Frequently Asked Questions

Can GRP be applied over an existing felt roof?

In some circumstances, yes — GRP can be applied over sound, dry oxidised bitumen felt or modified bitumen felt surfaces that are firmly bonded and free from blistering. This is a specific application that requires an appropriate primer and is typically limited to overlay systems. However, the existing substrate must be inspected to confirm it is free from moisture beneath. Most specialists recommend full strip when the existing membrane is worn, as applying GRP over a failed substrate only delays the problem. Consult the GRP system manufacturer for specific substrate guidance.

What is the difference between GRP and fibreglass?

They are the same thing — GRP (glass reinforced polyester) is the correct technical term; "fibreglass" is the colloquial name. Both refer to the composite of glass fibre reinforcement and polyester resin. In roofing, the glass reinforcement is typically chopped strand mat (CSM). The terms are interchangeable in trade use.

How long does a GRP flat roof last?

A correctly installed GRP flat roof can last 40+ years. The manufacturers' warranty is typically 20–25 years. The limiting factor is UV degradation of the gelcoat, which can cause chalking and eventual cracking after 15–25 years in exposed conditions. This is a surface issue and can be addressed by re-coating the gelcoat without replacing the laminate. The glass/resin laminate itself is essentially inert and does not degrade in normal roofing conditions.

Does GRP need building control sign-off?

If the re-roofing is a like-for-like replacement of the waterproofing layer on an existing flat roof, a change in system type (e.g. from felt to GRP) may not require Building Control notification in some jurisdictions, but changes to insulation (which trigger Part L) do require notification. If the entire flat roof structure is being stripped and rebuilt, Building Control sign-off is required for Part C, Part L, and Part A. Check with the local Building Control authority or use a competent person scheme.

Regulations & Standards